The development of this layering system centered on a specific challenge in pattern optimization: creating high-performance hiking gear that eliminates excess bulk without sacrificing protection. The focus was on smarter patternmaking, refining the geometry of each garment so that every shape serves a functional purpose and aids the wearer’s range of motion.
By sourcing premium technical textiles, including Swiss-engineered Schoeller® stretch-wovens alongside performance materials sourced in the USA and Canada, the 6-piece system achieves a streamlined fit through extensive pattern engineering rather than simply reducing volume. Strategic articulation and precise seam placement remove the fabric bunching typically found in outdoor apparel, resulting in a durable, backcountry-ready capsule that supports the hiker through high-output movement.
cuan:o
the 6-piece kinetic system:
I. Protection
Waterproof Hardshell
3-layer membrane construction, fully seam-taped for total weather protection.
II. Thermal
Quarter-Zip Pullover
Polartec® 200 Curly Fleece for static warmth and comfortable feel.
Zip-Through Mid-Layer
Polartec® Power Stretch for active moisture-wicking and heat regulation.
III. chassis
360° Trek Pant
Built-in articulation for maximum mobility and heat-applied double-knee reinforcements for targeted abrasion resistance.
Summit Cargo Pant
High-recovery mobility for high-output hiking.
Kinetic Utility Short
High-durability utility for rugged trails with a low-profile pocket system.
a/w 2023
Title: 01. PERFORMANCE RAIN SHELL
Category: Outer Layer / Waterproof-Breathable | Focus: Pattern Optimization & Tactical Construction
The Concept
Designed as the primary protective layer for the CUAN:O system. The goal was to eliminate the bulk of traditional "lifestyle" parkas in favor of an unlined, high-mobility shell that facilitates quick adaptability in unpredictable environments.
Textile Performance & Sourcing
Fabric: 3-Layer Ultrex (PU-based membrane) with Tricot backing:
Total Weight: 4oz/sq.yd +/-5%
Fiber & Weave: 100% Nylon, Plain Weave
Finish: DWR, Micro Porous Waterproof Breathable
The Logic: Selected 3-layer construction over 2.5L for superior structural integrity and seam-tape adhesion.
Sustainability & Repair: 3-layer system enables easier tape removal and reapplication via heat press, significantly extending the product’s lifecycle compared to 2-layer alternatives.
Alternative Sourcing: Navigated North American supply chain constraints by sourcing high-performance Ultrex as a viable, flexible alternative to ePTFE membranes for small-batch technical production.
Master pattern (Front and Back) with drafted design lines in Optitex working space
Zach Mike (model) showing the shell’s fully seam taped interior
Waterproof Hard Shell patterns and pieces table. 27 pattern pieces and 47 total cut pieces
software & Execution
Patternmaking: Manual & Optitex.
Documentation: Comprehensive Tech Pack developed in Excel.
Prototyping: 100% self-constructed, including manual seam sealing and hardware integration.
Complete tech pack created in Excel
Technical Features
3D Ergonomic Hood: Modified from an Arc’teryx anatomical block; refined in Optitex for a snug, non-helmet-compatible fit with a double-laminated visor.
Hardware: YKK AquaGuard® Coil Zippers; dual-cinch cord adjusters.
Laminated Details: Adhesive-bonded hood and cuff facings to reduce needle-hole exposure and create a "clean" modern finish.
3 - panel hood design with hood facing and visor interfacing in Optitex working space
a prototype made out of stiff coated cotton
Final hood- 3/4 view
Final hood- Profile view
Title: 02. zip-through midlayer
Category: Thermal Mid-Layer | Weight: 240 GSM | Fit: Semi-fit
The Concept
A packable thermal layer designed for high-intensity adaptability.
Cohesive Design Language: Features calculated design lines on the torso that establish a visual rhythm with the rest of the capsule. These lines serve as a "Mountain and Valley" signature, ensuring aesthetic consistency across the layering system.
FRONT
BACK
2D Optitex pattern blocks vs. finished prototype
technical Specifications
Fabric: Polartec® Power Stretch™ (Nylon/Polyester/Spandex).
Performance: 4-way stretch with dual-surface knit (Low-friction face / Brushed interior).
Hardware: Size 5 YKK Reverse Coil Zipper and YKK slider for a low-profile, debris-resistant finish.
Construction: 4-thread serge + Coverstitch for flat, chafe-free interior seams.
Clean Finishing: A fold-over neck panel and a bound neck seam to provide a refined, low-profile finish at the neckline.
Close-up: Different seam finishes and garment tags (Main label, COO & Care Instructions)
software & Execution
Patternmaking: Optitex.
Documentation: Comprehensive Tech Pack developed in Excel.
Prototyping: self-constructed.
Title: 03. quarter zip pullover
Category: Thermal Mid-Layer | Weight: 200 GSM | Fit: Relaxed-Active
The Concept
A high-loft alternative to the zip-through midlayer, offering increased thermal retention with a more relaxed, versatile silhouette. Designed for urban-to-alpine utility, it maintains the capsule's core visual identity while prioritizing comfort and sustainable material choice.
Technical Specifications
Fabric: Polartec® 200 Series Fleece (High-loft / 100% Post-Consumer Recycled Polyester).
Sustainability: Utilizes PCR (Post-Consumer Recycled) plastic bottle fibers, reflecting a commitment to eco-conscious technical sourcing.
Design Integration: Features an oversized rectangular fold-over collar and signature geometric line-work. Inverted front-panel darting provides subtle contouring while maintaining alignment with the capsule's "Mountain and Valley" design language.
Hardware: Size 5 YKK Reverse Coil Zipper and YKK slider for a low-profile, debris-resistant finish.
Clean Finishing: Internal bound neck seams ensure comfort and structural stability at high-friction points.
Tristan Sokol (model) in motion, wearing the Quarter Zip Pullover
Fit Revision Log
A systematic audit was conducted on Proto 1 to address functional constraints and aesthetic proportions. The transition from a traditional ribbed finish to a technical coverstitch was prioritized to enhance repairability and movement.
software & Execution
Patternmaking: Optitex.
Documentation: Comprehensive Tech Pack developed in Excel.
Prototyping: self-constructed.
FINDING THE RHYTHM: A STUDY IN COHESION
Designing these three tops was a lesson in visual consistency. I didn't want them to just "work" together functionally; I wanted them to speak the same language. By placing them side-by-side, the "Mountain and Valley" rhythm becomes clear, it’s a visual hand-off that carries the energy of the outer shell down into the core mid-layers.
The core challenge was balancing sharp geometry with organic curves across all three tops, ensuring each variation felt distinct yet interconnected; solving that structural puzzle is ultimately what transforms the capsule into a single, cohesive system.
Even when you strip back the layers, the DNA remains. It’s that intentional alignment that turns three individual garments into a cohesive family.
Upper-Body DNA: A side-by-side pattern blocks (Front & Back Torso) of the three core tops,
showcasing the intentional alignment of seam architecture as it transitions from the hard shell into the mid-layers.
Zip-Through Mid Layer (left), Hard Shell (middle) and Quarter Zip Pullover (right)
Title: 04. 360° TREK PANT
Category: Technical Shell | Fit: Tapered Articulated | Complexity: Very High
The Concept
The CUAN:O articulated 360°Trek Pant focuses on redefining the "second skin" experience in technical apparel. Moving beyond a standard slim-fit block, the design utilizes a 360° draft drafted to mirror the mechanical pivots of the human leg. By integrating 2D drafting with Virtual Fit Testing, the pattern-making process was optimized to eliminate material resistance during movement. The result is a high-mobility pant that provides structural protection while maintaining the fluid range of motion required for technical alpine terrain.
The use of Browzwear VStitcher was critical in achieving the precision fit required for this high-complexity pattern. By utilizing a digital avatar based on real-life fit model measurements, I was able to identify and resolve anatomical fit issues instantly without the need for multiple physical prototypes.
Because technical stretch-wovens are costly, the fabric simulation in VStitcher allowed for a level of accuracy that traditional muslin prototyping cannot provide. This digital-first approach significantly accelerated the refining process, moving from the initial block (left) to the final, snugged-down, high-performance fit (right) with maximum efficiency and minimal material waste.
Technical Specifications
Fabric: Adventure® Midweight Stretch Woven (92% Nylon, 8% Spandex) featuring an abrasion-resistant face, moisture-wicking back, and 4-way stretch with a DWR finish.
360° Articulation: Multi-panel construction at the front/back of the knee and inner thigh.
Stealth Reinforcement: Double-knee panels with hidden articulated padding, bonded to the interior for a low-profile finish.
Ergonomic Storage: Right-thigh welt pocket dimensioned via a 2023 user survey to ensure a bounce-free fit for modern smartphones.
Adjustable Hem: Zippered gussets with welted tape coverage for compatibility across various outdoor footwear.
(up) Construction: Edge-stitching the gusset window onto the double-welt zipper tape (Step 7 of 28 - SOC)
Interior Architecture: View of mesh pocketing, serged seam finishing, and the integrated 3-panel contoured knee reinforcement.
Construction: Assembly of the contoured waistband and belt loops nearing final completion.
(up) 3D Volume: Front and back leg panels displaying inherent structural contouring even when laid flat.
Optitex workspace displaying the 33-pattern piece assembly and pattern pieces table
PATTERN logic: ANATOMICAL shaping
[Left: Mapping Mobility | Right: Final Pattern Geometry]
The articulation was developed by translating human anatomy into 2D geometry. I began by identifying high-motion zones to place strategic darting at the anterior and posterior knee. By aligning the design lines with these dart termination points, I used dart manipulation to close up darts and transform flat panels into a pre-shaped, 3D volume. Further shaping was added to the upper thigh by curving specific seamlines to follow the natural profile of the leg.
This process allowed me to achieve a streamlined front leg construction and a fully contoured back panel. The result is a 360° shaping system that achieves a precise, anatomical fit while maintaining the collection’s signature aesthetic.
Hardware, COnstruction & SOFTWARE
Hardware: YKK #3.5 coil zipper tape, semi-lock reverse-bale sliders & rubber-covered metal pull tabs.
Waistband: Closure featuring pant hook and bar and Cobrax® snaps for a low-profile interface under gear.
Software: Optitex 2D, Browzwear Vstitcher
Documentation: Comprehensive Tech Pack developed in Excel.
Prototyping: self-constructed.
Tech Pack
Material Procurement: Assessing technical fabrics and a curated selection of premium hardware sourced nationwide for the final system.
Title: 05. summit cargo pant
Category: Technical Shell | Fit: Relaxed / Articulated | Complexity: High
The Concept
The structural anchor for the lower body translating the "sharp vs. soft" aesthetic into a relaxed silhouette. The core technical challenge involved the acute mitered seams positioned across the back calf to maintain visual continuity with the mountain summit motifs of the upper layers.
Technical Specifications
Fabric: Lightweight Nylon Taslan | 105 gsm | 70D x 160D | Matte Cotton-Touch
Low-Profile Cargo: 4-panel minimalist gusseted zippered pocket designed to remain flush to the leg.
Hybrid Waistband: Half-elasticized construction for ease of entry and comfort while maintaining a clean, flat-front aesthetic.
Mobility & Airflow: Diamond-shaped crotch gusset lined with athletic micro-mesh and eyelet vents (embroidered) for thermoregulation.
Articulation: Ergonomic front and back knee paneling with a hidden double-knee layer.
Utility: Signature quick-access phone pocket, shock-cord hem casing.
Hardware: Low-profile YKK #3.5 coil zipper, semi-lock reverse-bale sliders with rubber-covered metal pull tabs.
(up) 4-panel gusseted pocket pattern
Summit Cargo Pant- Final Sample - Front
Visualization of the "Mountain Peak" geometry across front and back leg panels, showing the alignment of mitered calf seams and the 3-panel articulated knee.
Summit Cargo Pant- Final Sample - Back
software & Execution
Patternmaking: Optitex.
Documentation: Comprehensive Tech Pack developed in Excel.
Prototyping: self-constructed.
Summit Cargo Pant Technical Sketches
Title: 06. kinetic utility short
Category: Technical Luxury Shell Short | Fit: Active / Tailored
The Concept
A personal exploration into Technical Luxury, serving as the system's most refined silhouette. Inspired by the architectural rigor of Veilance (Secant/Voronoi), this short utilizes a dual-tone "Warm/Cool" palette to maintain system coherency with the 04: Trek 360° Pant
The design is a study in "Invisible Complexity", balancing the sharp, angular geometry of the rear panels with softened curves on the front. By utilizing a waist facing instead of a traditional waistband, the garment achieves a continuous flow that emphasizes the premium drape of the Schoeller® textile.
Technical Specifications
Faced Waistline: A sophisticated internal facing removes all horizontal visual breaks. This particular finishing creates a seamless transition from body to garment.
Fabric: Schoeller® Doubleface Stretch Woven | 130 gsm (3.8 oz) | 4-Way Stretch | NanoSphere® DWR
Minimalist Pocketing: Front pockets feature a unique curved opening that terminates directly at the waist edge for a sleek, sophisticated entry. The back features a single-welt pocket on the right side for utility.
Stitching alternative: Both the hem and waist facing are seam-taped to the inner body. The minimal visible top-stitching creates a fluid, elevated aesthetic.
Software & Execution
Patternmaking: Optitex.
Documentation: Comprehensive Tech Pack developed in Excel.
Prototyping: self-constructed.
Kinetic Utility Short
Final Sample - Front and Back
Stage 1: THe BLueprint
Traditional block with identified waist dart andproposed geometric design lines.
stage 2: THE LOGIC
Dart manipulation: Transitioning 2D shaping into
functional panel seams.
Pattern Logic:
ACHIEVINg Intentional Simplicity
The technical short is often a "solved" silhouette, but I used this piece to focus on the details usually overlooked in mass production. My goal was an effortless aesthetic achieved through intentional decision-making rather than standard shortcuts.
Instead of relying on common waist darts or yokes that create visual noise, I used standard dart manipulation to integrate the shaping directly into the geometric seams. By fanning the design lines out to the outseam from the waist dart termination point, I eliminated the dart entirely. This resulted in a two-panel back construction with the 3D shaping built into the seam logic. It’s a simple technique used to ensure a sculptural fit while maintaining a completely clean exterior.
Stage 3: The ProDuct
Final technical pattern for the Kinetic Utility Short, color-coded for material allocation.
Photographer: Henry Jensen
Model: Tristan Sokol
Shoot assistant: Brady Larimer
Project Ownership & Credits
The design and development of CUAN:0 A/W 2023 Layering System, from research, concept, textile sourcing, and pattern making to final garment construction, was executed solely by this designer. This project represents a rigorous 12-week end-to-end technical exercise in self-construction.
I, Chi Vu Duong, would like to extend my sincere gratitude to the mentors and peers who contributed their time, technical insight, and support throughout the development of this collection. I never would have been able to make this happen without you.
Special thanks to: My Mother, Tristan Sokol, Eli Dechenne, Jasmine McKay, and Matthew David Paige, and